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Make your own Biodiesel 

Anybody can make Biodiesel. It's easy, you can make it in your kitchen -- and it's BETTER than the petro-diesel fuel the big oil companies sell you. Your diesel motor will run better and last longer on your home-made fuel, and it's much cleaner -- better for the environment and better for health. If you make it from used cooking oil it's not only cheap but you'll be recycling a troublesome waste product. Best of all is the GREAT feeling of freedom, independence and empowerment it will give you. Here's how to do it -- everything you need to know.

Three choices
1. Mixing it
2. Straight vegetable oil
3. Biodiesel or SVO?
Biodiesel
Where do I start?
What's next?
The process
Make your first test batch
Our first biodiesel
Biodiesel from new oil
Biodiesel from waste oil
Moving on to bigger things
Scaling up
Removing the water
Washing
Using biodiesel
Safety
More about methanol
How much methanol?
Ethyl esters -- making ethanol biodiesel
Reclaiming excess methanol
More about lye
Using KOH
How much lye to use?
Basic titration
Better titration
Accurate measurements
Joe Street's titrator
pH meters
Phenolphthalein
pH meters vs phenolphthalein
High FFA levels
Deacidifying WVO
No titration?
The basic lye quantity -- 3.5 grams?
Mixing the methoxide
Stock methoxide solution
Poor man's titration

How much glycerine? Why isn't it solid?

PET bottle mixers

Viscosity testing
How the process works
What are Free Fatty Acids?
Iodine Values
-- High Iodine Values
-- Talking about the weather
-- Summary
Hydrogenated oil, shortening, margarine
Oxidation and polymerization
Which method to use?
Why can't I start with the Foolproof method?
Quality
Quality testing
Cetane Numbers
National standards for biodiesel
-- standards and the home brewer
-- standard testing
Biodiesel in gasoline engines
Storing biodiesel

Home heating
Lamps and stoves
Other uses
Fats and oils -- resources
Diesel information
Identifying plastics

Three choices

There are at least three ways to run a diesel engine on biofuel using vegetable oils, animal fats or both. All three are used with both fresh and used oils.

• Use the oil just as it is -- usually called SVO fuel (straight vegetable oil);
• Mix it with kerosene (paraffin) or petroleum diesel fuel, or with biodiesel, or blend it with a solvent, or with gasoline;
• Convert it to biodiesel.

The first two methods sound easiest, but, as so often in life, it's not quite that simple.

1. Mixing it

Vegetable oil is much more viscous (thicker) than either petro-diesel or biodiesel. The purpose of mixing it or blending it with other fuels is to lower the viscosity to make it thinner so that it flows more freely through the fuel system into the combustion chamber.

If you're mixing veg-oil with petroleum diesel or kerosene (same as #1 diesel) you're still using fossil-fuel -- cleaner than most, but still not clean enough, many would say. Still, for every gallon of vegetable oil you use, that's one gallon of fossil-fuel saved, and that much less climate-changing carbon in the atmosphere.

People use various mixes, ranging from 10% vegetable oil and 90% petro-diesel to 90% vegetable oil and 10% petro-diesel. Some people just use it that way, start up and go, without pre-heating it (which makes veg-oil much thinner), or even use pure vegetable oil without pre-heating it, which would make it much thinner.

You might get away with it with an older Mercedes 5-cylinder IDI diesel, which is a very tough and tolerant motor -- it won't like it but you probably won't kill it. Otherwise, it's not wise.

To do it properly you'll need what amounts to an SVO system with fuel pre-heating anyway, preferably using pure petro-diesel or biodiesel for starts and stops. (See next.) In which case there's no need for the mixes.

Blends with various solvents and/or with unleaded gasoline are "experimental at best", little or nothing is known about their effects on the combustion characteristics of the fuel or their long-term effects on the engine.

Higher viscosity is not the only problem with using vegetable oil as fuel. Veg-oil has different chemical properties and combustion characteristics from the petroleum diesel fuel for which diesel engines and their fuel systems are designed. Diesel engines are high-tech machines with very precise fuel requirements, especially the more modern, cleaner-burning diesels (see The TDI-SVO controversy). They're tough but they'll only take so much abuse.

There's no guarantee of it, but using a blend of up to 20% veg-oil of good quality is said to be safe enough for older diesels, especially in summer. Otherwise using veg-oil fuel needs either a professional SVO solution or biodiesel.

Mixes and blends are generally a poor compromise. But mixes do have an advantage in cold weather. As with biodiesel, some kerosene or winterised petro-diesel fuel mixed with straight vegetable oil lowers the temperature at which it starts to gel. (See Using biodiesel in winter)

More about fuel mixing and blends.

2. Straight vegetable oil

Straight vegetable oil fuel (SVO) systems can be a clean, effective and economical option.

Unlike biodiesel, with SVO you have to modify the engine. The best way is to fit a professional single-tank SVO system with replacement injectors and glowplugs optimised for veg-oil, as well as fuel heating. With the German Elsbett single-tank SVO system for instance you can use petro-diesel, biodiesel or SVO, in any combination. Just start up and go, stop and switch off, like any other car. Journey to Forever's Toyota TownAce van uses an Elsbett single-tank system. More

There are also two-tank SVO systems which pre-heat the oil to make it thinner. You have to start the engine on ordinary petroleum diesel or biodiesel in one tank and then switch to SVO in the other tank when the veg-oil is hot enough, and switch back to petro- or biodiesel before you stop the engine, or you'll coke up the injectors.

More information on straight vegetable oil systems here.

3. Biodiesel or SVO?

Biodiesel has some clear advantages over SVO: it works in any diesel, without any conversion or modifications to the engine or the fuel system -- just put it in and go. It also has better cold-weather properties than SVO (but not as good as petro-diesel -- see Using biodiesel in winter). Unlike SVO, it's backed by many long-term tests in many countries, including millions of miles on the road.

Biodiesel is a clean, safe, ready-to-use, alternative fuel, whereas it's fair to say that many SVO systems are still experimental and need further development.

On the other hand, biodiesel can be more expensive, depending how much you make, what you make it from and whether you're comparing it with new or used oil (and on where you live). And, unlike SVO, it has to be processed first. But the large and rapidly growing worldwide band of homebrewers don't seem to mind -- they make a supply every week or once a month and soon get used to it. Many have been doing it for years.

Anyway you have to process SVO too, especially WVO (waste vegetable oil, used, cooked), which many people with SVO systems use because it's cheap or free for the taking. WVO has to be filtered and dewatered, and probably should be deacidified.

Biodieselers say, "If I'm going to have to do all that I might as well make biodiesel instead." But SVO types scoff at that -- it's much less processing than making biodiesel, they say. To each his own.

x	Needs processing	Guaranteed trouble-free	Engine conversion	Cost
Biodiesel	Yes	Yes*	No	Smaller outlay
SVO/WVO	Less	No	Yes	Cheaper in the long-run
* Fuel filters might need changing in the first couple of weeks; fuel hoses or seals on some older diesels might need changing. See Biodiesel and your vehicle

Costs and prices: Biodieselers using waste oil feedstock say they can make biodiesel for 50-60 cents US per US gallon. Most people in the US use about 600 gallons of fuel a year (about 10 gallons a week) -- say US$1,700 a year (Sept 05). Biodieselers will be paying $300-360 for their fuel, while a good processor can be set up for around $100 up. An SVO system costs from about $500 to $1,200 or more. So with an SVO system you'll be ahead of fossil-fuel prices within a year, not a long time in the life of a diesel motor, but you're probably still behind the biodieselers.

Will the engine last as long with SVO? Yes, if you use a good system. Recommendations, and much more, here.

Biodiesel

Converting the oil to biodiesel is probably the best all-round solution of the three options (or we think so anyway).

You could simply buy your biodiesel. Most major European vehicle manufacturers now provide vehicle warranties covering the use of pure biodiesel -- though that might not be just any biodiesel. Some insist on "RME", rapeseed methyl esters, and won't cover use of soy biodiesel (which isn't covered by the Euro biodiesel standard). Germany has thousands of filling stations supplying biodiesel, and it's cheaper there than ordinary diesel fuel. All fossil diesel fuel sold in France contains between 2% and 5% biodiesel. New EU laws will soon require this Europe-wide. Some states in the US are legislating similar requirements. There's a growing number of US suppliers and sales are rising fast, though biodiesel is more expensive than ordinary diesel in the US. In the UK biodiesel is taxed less than petrodiesel and it's available commercially.

But there's a lot to be said for the GREAT feeling of independence you'll get from making your own fuel!

If you want to make it yourself, there are several good recipes available for making high-quality biodiesel, and they say what we also say: some of these chemicals are dangerous, take full safety precautions, and if you burn/maim/blind/kill yourself or anyone else, that will make us very sad, but not liable -- we don't recommend anything, it's nobody's responsibility but your own.

On the other hand, nobody has yet burned/maimed/blinded/killed themselves or anyone else making homebrewed biodiesel. Large numbers of ordinary people all over the world are making their own biodiesel, it's been going on for years, and so far there have been NO serious accidents. It's safe if you're careful and sensible.

"Sensible" also means not over-reacting, as some people do: "I'd like to make biodiesel but I'm frightened of all those terrible poisons." In fact they're common enough household chemicals. Lye is sold in supermarkets and hardware stores as a drain-cleaner, there's probably a can of it under the sink in most households. Methanol is the main or only ingredient in barbecue fuel or fondue fuel, often sold in supermarkets and chain stores as "stove fuel" and used at the dinner table; it's also the main ingredient in the fuel kids use in their model aero engines. So get it in perspective, there's no need to be frightened. See Safety and More about methanol for further information.

Learn as much as you can first -- lots of information is available. Make small test batches before you try large batches (see also Test-batch mini-processor). Make it with fresh oil before you try waste oil -- see next.

Where do I start?

Start with the process, NOT with the processor. The processor comes later.

Start with the new fresh oil, NOT with waste vegetable oil (WVO), that also comes later.

Start by making a test batch of biodiesel in a blender using 1 litre of fresh new oil. If you don't have a spare blender, either get a cheap second-hand one, or, better, make a simple Test-batch mini-processor.

Keep going, step by step. Study everything on this page and the next page and at the links in the text. There are checks and tests along the way so you won't go wrong.

Go on, do it! Thousands and thousands of others have done it, so can you. Get some methanol, some lye and some new oil at the supermarket and go ahead -- it's a real thrill!

Here's the recipe. Or just keep reading, you'll get to the recipe in a minute anyway.

What's next?

Learn, one step at a time. It's all quite simple really, very few biodiesel homebrewers are chemists or technicians, there's nothing a layman can't understand, and do, and do it well. But there is quite a lot to learn. You'll find everything you need to know right here. We've tried to make it easy for you. You start off with the simplest process that has the best chance of success and move on step by step in a logical progression, adding more advanced features as you go.

• "I am a pipe welder who knew nothing about chemistry but I have learned a lot from this website. It's set up for someone who has never had a chemistry class (me). If I can understand this anyone can." -- Marty, Biofuel mailing list, 23 Oct 2005
  
  
• "For anyone starting out or still in the R&D phase of scaling up and tweaking the process to improve quality, disregard anything other than the tried and tested directions at JtF. Print them out. Read them and then re-read them. Follow the instructions, don't add or subtract anything and you will be making quality biodiesel." -- Tom, Biofuel mailing list, 5 Nov 2005
  
  
• "My best advice is to follow explicitly the instructions on the J2F website starting from the begining and you will do just fine. In my own journey of discovery I learned this. You cannot afford to cut corners. Don't be tempted to use less than accurate measures and think that it will be alright. There is no cheating." -- Joe, Biofuel mailing list, 4 Jan 2006

The process

Vegetable oils and animal fats are triglycerides, containing glycerine. The biodiesel process turns the oils and fats into esters, separating out the glycerine. The glycerine sinks to the bottom and the biodiesel floats on top and can be syphoned off.

The process is called transesterification, which substitutes alcohol for the glycerine in a chemical reaction, using lye as a catalyst. See How the process works

Chemicals needed

The alcohol used can be either methanol, which makes methyl esters, or ethanol (ethyl esters). Most methanol comes from fossil fuels (though it can also be made from biomass, such as wood), while most ethanol is plant-based (though it's also made from petroleum) and you can distill it yourself. But the biodiesel process using ethanol is much more difficult than with methanol, strictly not for novices. (See Ethyl esters.)

Ethanol (or ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol -- EtOH, C2H5OH) also goes by various other well-known names, such as whisky, vodka, gin, and so on, but methanol is a poison. Actually they're both poisons, it's just a matter of degree, methanol's much more poisonous. But don't be put off -- methanol is not dangerous if you're careful, it's easy to do this safely. Safety is built-in to everything you'll read here. See Safety. See More about methanol.

Methanol is also called methyl alcohol, wood alcohol, wood naphtha, wood spirits, methyl hydrate (or "stove fuel"), carbinol, colonial spirits, Columbian spirits, Manhattan spirits, methylol, methyl hydroxide, hydroxymethane, monohydroxymethane, pyroxylic spirit, or MeOH (CH3OH or CH4O) -- all the same thing. (But, confusingly, "methylcarbinol" or "methyl carbinol" is used for both methanol and ethanol.)

You can usually get methanol from bulk liquid fuels distributors; in the US try getting it at race tracks. With a bit of patience, most people in most countries manage to track down a source of methanol for about US$2-3 per US gallon. For small amounts, you can use DriGas fuel line antifreeze, one type is methanol (eg "HEET" in the yellow container), another is isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol, rubbing alcohol), make sure to get the methanol one. Methanol is also sold in supermarkets and chain stores as "stove fuel" for barbecues and fondues, but check the contents -- not all "stove fuel" is methanol, it could also be "white gas", basically gasoline. It must be pure methanol or it won't work for making biodiesel. See Methanol suppliers

Methylated spirits (denatured ethanol) doesn't work; isopropanol also doesn't work.

The lye catalyst can be either sodium hydroxide (caustic soda, NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH). NaOH is often easier to get and it's cheaper to use. With KOH, the process is the same, but you need to use 1.4 times as much (1.4025). (See More about lye.) KOH is easier to use, and we think it does a better job. Experienced biodieselers making top-quality fuel usually use KOH, and so do the commercial producers. KOH can also provide potash fertiliser as a by-product of the biodiesel process.

You can get both NaOH and KOH from soapmakers' suppliers and from chemicals suppliers. NaOH is used as drain-cleaner and you can get it from hardware stores, but it has to be pure NaOH (not Drano or equivalent, no coloured granules).

CAUTION:
Lye (both NaOH and KOH) is dangerous -- don't get it on your skin or in your eyes, don't breathe any fumes, keep the whole process away from food, and right away from children. Lye reacts with aluminium, tin and zinc. Use HDPE (High-Density Polyethylene), glass, enamel or stainless steel containers for methoxide. (See Identifying plastics.) See Safety

See also Making lye from wood ash.

Chemicals for WVO

Isopropanol for titration is available from chemicals suppliers. Some people have used the other kind of Dri-Gas, which is isopropanol, but they found that it's unreliable. Best get 99% pure isopropanol from a chemicals supplier. 70% pure isopropanol is also said to work, but we found it didn't give satisfactory results.

Contrary to rumour, "phenol red", sold by pool supply stores and used for checking water, won't work for titrating WVO, its pH range isn't broad enough. Use phenolphthalein indicator, specifically 1% phenolphthalein solution (1.0w/v%) with 95% ethanol. Phenolphthalein lasts about a year. It's sensitive to light, store it in a cool, dark place. You can get it from chemicals suppliers. See: Phenolphthalein

Make your first test batch

Here's what you need:

• 1 litre of new vegetable oil, whatever the supermarket sells as cooking oil
• 200 ml of methanol, 99+% pure
• lye catalyst -- either potassium hydroxide (KOH) or sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• blender or mini-processor
• scales accurate to 0.1 grams, preferably less -- 0.01 grams is best
• measuring beakers for methanol and oil
• half-litre translucent white HDPE (#2 plastic) container with bung and screw-on cap
• 2 funnels to fit the HDPE container
• 2-litre PET bottle (water or soft-drinks bottle) for settling
• two 2-litre PET bottles for washing
• duct tape
• thermometer

See Accurate measurements

All equipment should be clean and dry.

For methanol, you can use DriGas fuel line antifreeze from an automotive store. One type of DriGas is methanol, another is isopropanol, make sure to get the methanol one. Also try "stove fuel" from hardware stores or home centres (but check the contents to make sure it's pure methanol, it could also be "white gas", which is gasoline and doesn't work), or try a chemicals supply company. See Methanol suppliers

You can get lye at hardware stores, or from soapmakers' suppliers. (The Red Devil-brand lye drain-cleaner previously sold in the US is no longer made.) Shake the container to check it hasn't absorbed moisture and coagulated into a useless mass, and make sure to keep it airtight. Don't use Drano or ZEP drain-cleaners or equivalents with blue or purple granules or any-coloured granules, it's only about half NaOH and it contains aluminium -- it won't work for biodiesel.

1. Safety

Read and observe the Safety instructions below.

2. Lye

You need to be quick when measuring out the lye because it very rapidly absorbs water from the atmosphere and water interferes with the biodiesel reaction. Measure the lye out into a handy-sized lightweight plastic bag on the scales (or even do the whole thing entirely inside a big clear plastic bag), then close the lid of the container firmly and close the plastic bag, winding it up so there's not much air in it with the lye and no more air can get in. Have exactly the same kind of bag on the other side of the scale to balance the weight, or adjust the scale for the weight of the bag.

How much to use. NaOH must be at least 96% pure, use exactly 3.5 grams. If you're using KOH it depends on the strength. If it's 99% pure (rare) use exactly 4.9 grams (4.90875). If it's 92% pure (more common) use 5.3 grams (5.33). If it's 85% pure (also common) use 5.8 grams (5.775). Any strength of KOH from 85% or stronger will do the job.

3. Mixing the methoxide

Use the "Methoxide the easy way" method -- it's also the safe way. Here's how to do it.

Measure out 200 ml of methanol and pour it into the half-litre HDPE container via the funnel. Methanol also absorbs water from the atmosphere so do it quickly and replace the lid of the methanol container tightly. Don't be too frightened of methanol, if you're working at ordinary room temperature and you keep it at arm's length you won't be exposed to dangerous fumes. See More about methanol.

Carefully add the lye to the HDPE container via the second funnel. Replace the bung and the screw on the cap tightly.

Shake the container a few times -- swirl it round rather than shaking it up and down. The mixture gets hot from the reaction. If you swirl it thoroughly for a minute or so five or six times over a period of time the lye will completely dissolve in the methanol, forming sodium methoxide or potassium methoxide. As soon as the liquid is clear with no undissolved particles you can begin the process.

The more you swirl the container the faster the lye will dissolve. With NaOH it can take from overnight to a few hours to as little as half-an-hour with lots of swirling (but don't be impatient, wait for ALL the lye to dissolve). Mixing KOH is much faster, it dissolves in the methanol more easily than NaOH and can be ready for use in 10 minutes.

4. The process

Using a blender. Use a spare blender you don't need or get a cheap secondhand one -- cheap because it might not last very long, but it will get you going until you build something better.

Check that the blender seals are in good order. Make sure all parts of the blender are clean and dry and that the blender components are tightly fitted.

Pre-heat the oil to 55 deg C (130 deg F) and pour it into the blender.

With the blender still switched off, carefully pour the prepared methoxide from the HDPE container into the oil.

Secure the blender lid tightly and switch on. Lower speeds should be enough. Blend for at least 20 minutes.

Using a mini-processor. Follow the instructions here and improvise where necessary -- there are many ways of building a processor like this.

Proceed with processing as above, maintain temperature at 55 deg C (130 deg F), process for one hour.

4. Transfer

As soon as the process is completed, pour the mixture from the blender or the mini-processor into the 2-litre PET bottle for settling and screw on the lid tightly. (As the mixture cools it will contract and you might have to let some more air into the bottle later.)

5. Settling

Freshly made biodiesel, 20 minutes after processing

Allow to settle for 12-24 hours.

Darker-coloured glycerine by-product will collect in a distinct layer at the bottom of the bottle, with a clear line of separation from the pale liquid above, which is the biodiesel. The biodiesel varies somewhat in colour according to the oil used (and so does the by-product layer at the bottom) but usually it's pale and yellowish (used-oil biodiesel can be darker and more amber). The biodiesel might be clear or it might still be cloudy, which is not a problem. It will clear eventually but there's no need to wait.

Carefully decant the top layer of biodiesel into a clean jar or PET bottle, taking care not to get any of the glycerine layer mixed up with the biodiesel. If you do, re-settle and try again.

6. Quality

Proceed to the wash-test to check the quality. If your biodiesel doesn't pass the test, here's what to do next.

7. Washing

If it passes the wash-test then wash the rest of the biodiesel. See Washing. For washing use the two 2-litre PET bottles in succession, with half a litre of tap water added for each of the three or four washes required. Pierce a small 2mm hole in the bottom corner of each of the two bottles and cover the hole securely with duct tape.

Pour the biodiesel into one of the wash bottles. Add the half-litre of fresh water.

a. Bubble-washing. See instructions here. Use a small aquarium air-pump and an air-bubbler stone -- cut the threaded lid off the wash bottles if necessary to get the stone in. After washing and settling, drain off the water from the bottom of the bottle by removing the duct tape from the hole. Block it again with your finger when it reaches the biodiesel. Transfer the biodiesel to the second wash bottle, add fresh water and wash again. Clean the first bottle and replace the duct tape. Repeat until finished.

b. Stirring. See instructions here. If you have a small enough paint stirrer and a variable-speed drill, cut the lids off the bottles as above to accommodate the stirrer. Stir until oil and water are well mixed and appear homogenous. Settle for two hours or more, drain as above for bubble-washing, repeat until finished.

If you don't have a stirrer, don't cut the lids off the wash bottles. Add the biodiesel and the water as above. Screw the cap on tightly. Turn the bottle on its side and roll it about with your hands until oil and water are well mixed and homogenous. Settle, drain as above for bubble-washing, repeat until finished.

8. Drying

When it's clear (not colourless but translucent) it's dry and ready to use. It might clear quickly, or it might take a few days or up to a week. If you're in a hurry, heat it gently to 48 deg C (120 deg F) and allow to cool.

9. Congratulations! You have just made high-quality diesel fuel. Say goodbye to ExxonMobil & Co., you don't need them anymore.

10. Read on!

Next step

Our first biodiesel

This was just an investigative project for us when we made our first biodiesel more than seven years ago in Hong Kong. Most of the equipment was rough and improvised. Apart from chemicals and some beakers, syringes and so on, the only thing we bought was a set of scales.

We got about 60 litres of used cooking oil from Lantau Island's local McDonald's. There were four 16-litre cans of it, a mix of used cooking oil and residual beef and chicken fats. Two of the tins were solidified, the other two held a gloppy semi-liquid. We warmed it up a bit on the stove (to about 50 deg C, 122 deg F) and filtered it through a fine mesh filter, and then again through coffee filter papers, but it was quite clean -- very little food residue was left in the filters.

Used cooking oil from McDonald's.

We'd also bought 10 litres of the cheapest new cooking oil we could find -- we don't know what kind of oil it was, the tins only said "Cooking Oil" -- and we used this for our first experiment.

It worked, though two of our first six batches failed. We've learnt a lot since then. Now it's easy to make high-quality biodiesel every time without fail. And we don't use open containers for processing now, and neither should you (see Safety, see Processors) -- and mix the methanol in closed containers too.

Simple, safe, efficient biodiesel processors you can build cheaply and easily

Practices, knowledge, technology, equipment and safety measures have all improved tremendously in the years since we brewed our first batch, thanks mainly to the collaborative work of thousands of biofuellers worldwide at the Biofuel mailing list and other Internet forums, using the growing body of information at our website and others.

As a Biofuel list member said in 2002: "I just want to say how important what you all are doing here is. Closed-system fuel production, on a local or small regional scale, tied to local resources, using accessible technologies, and dependent on entrepreneurial innovation combined with open-source information exchange -- it's AWESOME. Keep up the good work everyone, before the planet fries."

Biodiesel from new oil

containers for mixing methoxide! See above, Mixing the methoxide.

This mixture is sodium methoxide, a powerful corrosive base -- take full safety precautions when working with sodium methoxide, have a source of running water handy.

Midori checks the temperature of the oil.

Meanwhile we'd warmed the 10 litres of new oil in a 20-litre steel oil drum to about 40 deg C (104 deg F) to thin it so it mixed better (55 deg C, 131 deg F, is a better processing temperature). Don't let it get too hot or the methanol will evaporate. (Methanol boils at 64.7 deg C, 148.5 deg F.)

We'd made a wooden jig with a portable vice clamped to it holding a power drill fitted with a paint mixer to stir the contents of the oil drum. This did a good job without splashing. (Not advised, it's dangerous to use sparking electric motors such as those in drills for processing with open containers. See "Simple 5-gallon processor" for a much better way.)

Stirring well, we carefully added the sodium methoxide to the oil. The reaction started immediately, the mixture rapidly transforming into a clear, golden liquid. We kept stirring for an hour, keeping the temperature constant. Then we let it settle overnight.

The next day we syphoned off 10 litres of biodiesel, leaving two litres of glycerine by-product in the bottom of the drum.

Biodiesel from waste oil

This is more appealing than using new oil, but it's also more complicated.

First, check for water content. Used oil often has some water in it, and it has to be removed before processing. See Removing the water, below.

Refined fats and oils have a Free Fatty Acid (FFA) content of less than 0.1%. FFAs are formed in cooking the oil, and they interfere with the transesterification process for making biodiesel. With waste oil you have to use more lye catalyst to neutralise the FFAs. The extra lye turns the FFAs into soap which drops out of the reaction along with the glycerine by-product.

It's essential to titrate the oil to determine the FFA content and calculate how much extra lye will be required to neutralise it. This means determining the pH -- the acid-alkaline level (pH7 is neutral, lower values are increasingly acidic, higher than 7 is alkaline). An electronic pH meter is best, but you can also use pH test strips (or litmus paper), or, better than test strips, phenolphthalein solution (from a chemicals supplier).

You can also use red cabbage juice, which changes from red in a strong acid, to pink, purple, blue, and finally green in a strong alkali, or one of the other plant-based pH indicators. See Natural test papers -- Cabbage, Brazil, Dahlia, Elderberry, Indigo, Litmus, Rose, Rhubarb, Turmeric.

We didn't have a pH meter when we started making biodiesel in 1999 so we used phenolphthalein solution. Phenolphthalein is colourless up to pH 8.3, then it turns pink (or rather magenta), and red at pH 10.4. When it's just starting to turn pink it's reading pH 8.5, which is the measure you want.

Phenolphthalein lasts about a year. It's sensitive to light, store it in a cool, dark place.

Don't be put of or frightened away by titration. It's not difficult, thousands and thousands of non-chemist biodiesel makers have learnt how to do it without difficulty and use it every time they make biodiesel. Just follow the directions, step by step. See also More about lye, Better titration, Joe Street's titrator, Accurate measurements.

Titration

Keith checks the pH of the waste oil.

Dissolve 1 gm of lye in 1 litre of distilled water (0.1% w/v lye solution, weight-to-volume).

In a smaller beaker, dissolve 1 ml of the oil in 10 ml of pure isopropyl alcohol. Warm the beaker gently by standing it in some hot water, stir until all the oil dissolves in the alcohol and turns clear. (Chopsticks make the best stirrers for titration.)

Add 2 drops of phenolphthalein solution.

Using a graduated syringe or a pipette, add 0.1% NaOH solution drop by drop to the oil-alcohol-phenolphthalein mixture, stirring all the time. It might turn a bit cloudy, keep stirring. Keep on carefully adding the NaOH solution until the mixture starts to turn pink (magenta) and stays that way for 15 seconds.

Take the number of millilitres of 0.1% NaOH solution you used and add 3.5 (the basic amount of NaOH needed for fresh oil). This is the number of grams of NaOH you'll need per litre of the oil you titrated.

Our first titration took 6 ml of 0.1% NaOH solution (not very good oil), so we used 6 + 3.5 = 9.5 grams of NaOH per litre of oil: 95 grams for 10 litres.

Moving on to bigger things

When you're confident that you can get good results every time, even using oil from different sources, then it's time to scale up the process to provide your fuel needs. Now that you have a feel for the process and know what to expect, you'll have a much better idea of what sort of processor you want than if you'd started off building the processor (as many do) rather than learning the process first. See Biodiesel processors.

However, one-litre test batches are not just something for beginners. It's a basic technique you'll always use. Many experienced biodiesel makers do test batches with each batch of oil. Many not only titrate the oil every time to calculate the right amount of lye to use, they also do "bracket" tests in sequence, followed by wash tests. You learn a lot that way, your fuel gets better, life gets easier.

In fact life is already easier -- people who start off making 40-gallon batches often never learn the accuracy and discipline that comes from making one-litre test batches first. Their fuel quality suffers for it, and when they encounter that inevitable "problem batch", they suffer for it too.

But if you've followed the instructions here carefully, you'll be familiar with all the variables, you'll have good methodology, and you'll be in a much better position to trouble-shoot a problem batch successfully.

Keep a Biodiesel Journal -- make notes, keep records. Get some small glass jars and keep samples of all your batches, clearly labelled and cross-referenced to the notes in your journal. You won't regret it.

When scaling up from small test-batches to a full-sized processor, be aware that the process will probably need some adjusting. All the various processing methods use averages and approximations because processors vary so widely. Use the fuel quality tests to fine-tune it to your particular processor. See Scaling up.

Removing the water

Water in the oil will interfere with the lye, especially if you use too much lye, and you'll end up with jelly. Test first for water content -- heat half a litre or so of the oil in a saucepan on the stove and monitor the temperature with a thermometer. If there's water in it it will start to "snap, crackle and pop" by 50 deg C (120 deg F) or so. If it's still not crackling by 60 deg C (140 deg F) there's no need to dewater it.

See Mike Pelly's recommendations: Removing the water.

Here's another way, from Aleks Kac -- it uses less energy and doesn't risk forming more Free Fatty Acids (see below) by overheating. Heat the oil to 60 deg C (140 deg F), maintain the temperature for 15 minutes and then pour the oil into a settling tank. Let it settle for at least 24 hours. Make sure you never empty the settling vessel more than 90%.

Here's what Biofuel mailing list member Dale Scroggins says about water removal:

Water in vegetable oil can exist as free water, which will eventually settle to the bottom of a vessel; as suspended droplets, which may settle if the oil is heated, or the droplets are coalesced; and as water in solution with other impurities in the oil. Free water is the easiest to remove. The droplets are removed most efficiently by coalescing and draining. Suspended droplets that cannot be coalesced and water in solution are more problematic.

Boiling off the water is more difficult than it appears on the surface. Colligative properties of solutions (and some mixtures) can make removal of the last traces of water almost impossible. Water mixed with oil will not boil at the same temperature and pressure as pure water. As water is removed, more heat or lower pressure will be required to remove more water. If the oil contains salts or semi-soluble fatty acids, distillation is even more difficult.

As the percentage of water in the solution decreases (its molar fraction) its vapor pressure will continue to drop. Lowering pressure in the system alone may be insufficient to sustain vaporization when the solution becomes concentrated (the molar fraction of the solute greatly exceeds that of the solvent). Results will vary depending upon the nature of the water-soluble impurities in the oil. Few solutions are ideal, in terms of Raoult's law, and in used vegetable oil, there is no way to know what solutes are in the oil.

The important thing is how well-used, or overused, the oil is. Titration will tell you that. The higher the titration result, the more water it's likely to contain, and the more difficult it will probably be to remove the water.

Start with heating to 60 deg C and settling, as Aleks Kac recommends, and if that doesn't give satisfactory results, try boiling it off, as Mike Pelly recommends. Then try processing small test batches of a litre or less first. If you still have difficulties, try to find better-quality oil.

Washing

Biodiesel must be washed before use to remove soaps, excess methanol, residual lye, free glycerine and other contaminants. Some people (fewer and fewer of them) say washing isn't necessary, arguing that the small amounts of contaminants cause no engine damage.

Read what the Fuel Injection Equipment (FIE) Manufacturers (Delphi, Stanadyne, Denso, Bosch) have to say about these contaminants:
Summary -- html
Full document -- Acrobat file, 104kb

See also: Determining the Influence of Contaminants on Biodiesel Properties, Jon H. Van Gerpen et al., Iowa State University, July 31, 1996 -- 12,000-word report on contaminants and their effects. Acrobat file, 2.1Mb:
http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/reportsdatabase/reports/gen/gen014.pdf

Myth:

> I did notice that a lot of the chemistry in the book was wrong.
> His main argument seemed to be against losing the energy in
> the methanol that was washed out.

The "energy" does you no good if your particular thermodynamic cycle can't take advantage of it. What is the cetane rating of methanol?
-- Ken Provost, Biofuel mailing list, "Re: washing?"

Quite so. The cetane rating of methanol is only 3, very low. Low cetane-number fuel in a diesel causes ignition delay and makes the engine knock. The high-speed diesel engines in cars and trucks are designed to use fuels with cetane numbers of about 50. The US biodiesel standard specifies a cetane number higher than 47, the EU standard specifies higher than 51. The methanol in unwashed biodiesel doesn't "make a great fuel anyway". It's also very corrosive. The EU biodiesel standard specifies less than 0.2% methanol content.

Quality biodiesel is well-washed biodiesel. Filtering it is no use, and letting it settle for a few weeks won't help much either. Anyway washing the fuel is easy.

See Washing

Using biodiesel

You don't have to convert the engine to run it on biodiesel, but you might need to make some adjustments and you should check a few things.

Petroleum diesel leaves a lot of dirt in the tank and the fuel system. Biodiesel is a good solvent -- it tends to free the dirt and clean it out. Be sure to check the fuel filters regularly at first. Start off with a new fuel filter.

If a car has been left standing for a long time with petroleum diesel fuel in the tank the inside of the tank may have rusted (water content is a common problem with petro-diesel fuel). Biodiesel will free up the rust, and it could clog the particle filter inside the tank. At worst the car simply stops, starved of fuel. It's not a very common problem, but it happens. See: Biodiesel and your vehicle -- Compatability: Filters.

A common warning is that biodiesel, especially 100% biodiesel, will rot any natural or butyl rubber parts in the fuel system, whether fuel lines or injector pump seals, and that they must first be replaced with resistant parts made of Viton. But rubber parts in diesel engine fuel systems have been rare or non-existent since the early 1980s -- it seldom happens, and when it does happen it's not catastrophic, you have plenty of warning and it's easily fixed. See: Biodiesel and your vehicle -- Compatability: Rubber.

See Biodiesel and your vehicle

Safety

Please read this whole section right to the end.

Wear proper protective gloves, apron, and eye protection and do not inhale any vapours. Methanol can cause blindness and death, and you don't even have to drink it, it's absorbed through the skin. Sodium hydroxide can cause severe burns and death. Together these two chemicals form sodium methoxide. This is an extremely caustic chemical.

These are dangerous chemicals -- treat them as such! Gloves should be chemical-proof with cuffs that can be pulled up over long sleeves -- no shorts or sandals. Always have running water handy when working with them. The workspace must be thoroughly ventilated. No children or pets allowed.

Organic vapor cartridge respirators are more or less useless against methanol vapors. Professional advice is not to use organic vapor cartridges for longer than a few hours maximum, or not to use them at all. Only a supplied-air system will do (SCBA -- Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus).

The best advice is not to expose yourself to the fumes in the first place. The main danger is when the methanol is hot -- when it's cold or at "room temperature" it fumes very little if at all and it's easily avoided, just keep it at arm's length whenever you open the container. Don't use "open" reactors -- biodiesel processors should be closed to the atmosphere, with no fumes escaping. All methanol containers should be kept tightly closed anyway to prevent water absorption from the air.

We transfer methanol from its container to the methoxide mixing container by pumping it, with no exposure. This is easily arranged, and an ordinary small aquarium air-pump will do. The methoxide is mixed like this -- Methoxide the easy way, which also happens to be the safe way. The mixture gets quite hot at first, but the container is kept closed and no fumes escape. When mixed, the methoxide is again pumped into the (closed) biodiesel processor with the aquarium air-pump -- there's no exposure to fumes, and it's added slowly, which is optimal for the process and also for safety. See Adding the methoxide.

Once again, making biodiesel is safe if you're careful and sensible -- nothing about life is safe if you're not careful and sensible! "Sensible" also mean not over-reacting, as some people do: "I'd like to make biodiesel but I'm frightened of all those terrible poisons." In fact they're common enough household chemicals. Lye is sold in supermarkets and hardware stores as a drain-cleaner, there's probably a can of it under the sink in most households. Methanol is the main or only ingredient in barbecue fuel or fondue fuel, sold in supermarkets and chain stores as "stove fuel" and used at the dinner table. It's also the main ingredient in the fuel kids use in their model aero engines. So get it in perspective: be careful with these chemicals -- be careful with ALL chemicals -- but there's no need to be frightened of them.

For fire risks, see Hazards

More about methanol

Question: Just how dangerous is methanol?

Fact: Methanol is a poisonous chemical that can blind you or kill you, and as well as drinking it you can absorb it through the skin and breathe in the fumes.

Question: How much does it take to kill you?

Short answer: Anything from five teaspoons to more than half a pint, but nobody really knows.

Fact: Human susceptibility to the acute effects of methanol intoxication is extremely variable. The minimum dose of methanol causing permanent visual defects is unknown. The lethal dose of methanol for humans is not known for certain. The minimum lethal dose of methanol in the absence of medical treatment is put at between 0.3 and 1 g/kg.

That means it's thought to take at least 20 grams of methanol to kill an average-sized person, or 25 ml, five teaspoonsful. Or it might need more than three times as much, 66 grams, 17 teaspoonsful, or maybe more, and even then it'll only kill you if you can't reach a doctor within a day or two, and maybe it still won't kill you.

But it definitely can kill you. If you drink five teaspoonsful of pure methanol you'll need medical treatment even if it doesn't kill you. Yet people have survived doses of 10 times as much -- a quarter of a litre, half a pint -- without any permanent harm. But others haven't survived much lower doses. Getting rapid medical attention is crucial, though the poisoning effects can be slow to develop.

Authorities advise that swallowing up to 1.3 grams or 1.7 ml of methanol or inhaling methanol vapour concentrations below 200 ppm should be harmless for most people. No severe effects have been reported in humans of methanol vapour exposures well above 200 ppm.

Out of 1,601 methanol poisonings reported in the US in 1987 the death rate was 0.375%, or 1 in 267 cases. It might have been only 1 in more than a thousand cases because most cases weren't reported. Most cases were caused by drinking badly made moonshine, which is a worldwide problem.

Fiction: "Methanol is ... a very active chemical against which the human body has no means of defence. It is absorbed easily through the skin and there is no means of elimination from the body, so levels of methanol dissolved in the blood accumulate."

That's from a British website trying to sell Straight Vegetable Oil (SVO) solvent additives by frightening people with the alleged perils of biodiesel. See The SVO vs biodiesel argument

Fact: 30 litres of fruit juice will probably contain up to 20 grams of methanol, near the official minimum lethal dose. Methanol is in the food we eat, in fresh fruit and vegetables, beer and wine, diet drinks, artificial sweeteners.

Not only that, methanol occurs naturally in humans. It's a natural component of blood, urine, saliva and the air you breathe out. It's there anyway even if you've never been exposed to chemical methanol or its fumes.

Methanol is eliminated from the body as a normal matter of course via the urine and exhaled air and by metabolism. Getting rid of it takes from a few hours for low doses to a day or two for higher doses. Some proportion of a dose of methanol just goes straight through, excreted by the lungs and kidneys unchanged. The normal background-level quantities of methanol in humans are eliminated and replenished all the time as a matter of course.

Fiction: It's largely biodiesel's methanol content that's being blamed when the same British SVO website charges that biodiesel is wasteful and environmentally irresponsible.

Fact: Methanol is readily biodegradable in the environment under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions (with and without oxygen) in a wide variety of conditions.

Generally 80% of methanol in sewage systems is biodegraded within 5 days.

Methanol is a normal growth substrate for many soil microorganisms, which completely degrade methanol to carbon dioxide and water.

Methanol is of low toxicity to aquatic and terrestrial organisms and it is not bioaccumulated. (It's toxic mainly to humans and monkeys.)

Environmental effects due to exposure to methanol are unlikely. Unless released in high concentrations, methanol would not be expected to persist or bioaccumulate in the environment. Low levels of release would not be expected to result in adverse environmental effects.

Fiction: A European SVO fuel website using similar anti-biodiesel tactics claims: "Biodiesel is a chemically altered plant oil. However the process to chemically change the structure of Pure Plant Oil is a very costly operation and requires a lot of energy, as it removes the glycerine substituting it by methanol as well as adding other chemicals, making the end-product poisonous and equally hazardous as fossil diesel fuel."

Fact: There is no free methanol in washed biodiesel. All the national standards require washing. According to US EPA studies methyl esters biodiesel is less toxic than table salt and more biodegradable than sugar. It has none of the toxic or environmental hazards of fossil diesel fuel.

"Methanol treatments of C3 plants [most food crops] have been found to result in growth improvement... As a plant source of carbon, methanol is a liquid concentrate: 1 cc of methanol provides the equivalent fixed-carbon substrate of over 2,000,000 cc of ambient air... Methanol treatments are a means of placing carbon directly into the foliage... The application of 10-100% methanol to some crops increased photosynthetic productivity... The uptake of methanol by plants in light leaves no significant residual methanol above baseline as detectable by chromotography within 15-30 minutes of penetration. Treatment with methanol is therefore an inexpensive, safe, and effective means of providing plants with a source of fixed carbon and carbon dioxide... An economical means of inhibition of photorespiration has been sought for decades, and methanol may well provide the solution... The control of photorespiration across the food crops of the world could double yields." -- Greg Harbican and Peter G., Biofuel mailing list, 8 Sep 2004. For discussion see:
http://snipurl.com/j94f
Methanol and Plants
http://snipurl.com/j94e
Use for wash water - methanol

Note however that the authors of Methanol Production and Use caution that the application of methanol to crops still requires further study before we all "rush out to spray methanol".

Most of the excess methanol used in the biodiesel process ends up in the glycerine by-product layer, and the rest stays in the biodiesel. If you don't reclaim it for re-use (you should!) the portion that's in the biodiesel gets washed out when you wash the fuel, mostly with the first wash. The first wash-water probably won't contain more than 5-6% methanol (as well as some sodium or potassium lye and some soap). You could try spraying it on half a small patch of weeds and don't spray the other half to see what happens. Choose a bright sunny day.


Next: Make your own biodiesel -- Page 2

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